It's a little scratched and one of the bass or treble knobs broke off (it's still hanging on though and can be superglued back if one were to open the chassis). I do happen to have an old Rockford Fosgate amp for sale. For the time being, you can probably get a little more efficient use of your HU by keeping the loudness off and reducing the bass (I know it sucks, but it's worse if you can't hear anything). Understandably, people's interpretation of volume varies. An 86db sensitivity rating is low for front speakers, and is indicative of needing an outboard power amp, hence the 50w RMS minimum rating on the speakers. Those MBQ's are power hungry, and you're simply not going to get high volume out of them from a HU.
I know exactly what 22w from a HU will do, and what 50w from a quality amp will do. I've installed a LOT of stereo systems in my day (16 years exp), with my last system pushing around 2000w RMS. With all due respect, and with gifty's findings, I am correct. Any IC (integrated circuit) can put out power, but it takes real electronics to put out true torque (current). Cheap foriegn amps look good on paper, but they can't drive **** on a stick. Speakers present a load to amplifiers, and amps are (well, they should be) designed to handle the load they are given. This is why there is a significant discrepancy between power ratings of HU's vs. In many cases, you will find torque/high current to be more useful than horsepower (Old school big blocks 454, 510, etc). Horsepower will keep your race car going around the track, but torque will enable your 4x4 to pull through the mud pit your high horse car couldn't possibly handle (Mazda RX-8, Honda Civic hot rod, etc). Think of it in terms of automobile performance. Generally speaking, high power produces the watts, but when placed under a heavy load (heavy load = low impedance), they fail because of the lack of current capability. There are two major types of energy sources in car audio: high power and high current. HU's are designed to drive high efficiency speakers they cannot and are not designed to drive a significant load. Right away, these speakers are telling me that you need a high current amplifier. Wow! You've got a major mismatch! A HU that puts out 22w RMS to speakers with an 86db sensitivity.not good. The vast majority of ground problems I've seen are from owners who twist wires together.the other issues are from noisy, unshielded components (like cheap amps, EQ's, crossovers, etc.) and poor grounds. Make sure the ground is absolutely secure & tight. The HU ground is the most important ground in the entire system, so spending some time trying various locations is time well spent. Metal to metal-make sure paint or any other insulator is not in the way-you can paint over the ground later when the connection is secure and you wish to prevent any rust. If you must extend the harness ground wire to make a good connection, be sure to solder the hell out of it and either tape the connection well or use heat shrink tubing to cover the connection. Another piece of metal will work, but the ground wire from the harness to the head unit itself isn't an ideal ground. A direct ground to the firewall, which is part of the frame, is best-no longer than 18" & preferably the shorter the better. It is highly recommended to ground the heat unit to metal attached to the car's frame. I've really no idea how grounding the HU to itself would affect performance, but electricity is a strange animal.
The head unit grounding location has little to do with overall volume, but it could afffect system performance. Knowing part/model numbers of your HU and speakers would help.
I'm not advocating getting rid of the MBQ's though. To overcome this, you'd simply need more power from an outboard amplifier. Im not sure what the sensitivity is of your MB Quarts, but if it's low, you won't get as much volume.
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